Origin of raw materials
1. Method of Obtaining
2. Olfactory Characteristics
3. Use in Perfumery
4. Examples of Perfumes
Oud (Agarwood)
Origin and History
Oud, also known as agarwood, aloe wood, or the wood of the gods, comes from the Aquilaria tree, native to the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. When this tree is infected by a specific fungus, Philaphora, it produces a fragrant resin as a protective agent. This resin is the source of the precious agarwood.
Used for centuries in the Middle East, the oud is deeply rooted in the cultural and religious traditions of the region.
Method of Obtaining
Oud is obtained through distillation, a process of separating a mixture of liquid substances from the resinous wood of the Aquilaria tree. This process is complex and expensive, contributing to the rarity and high value of this raw material.
Olfactory Characteristics
Oud gives off a woody, animalic, and amber scent with smoky nuances. Its deep and captivating aroma makes it a prized note in oriental and woody perfumes.
Use in Perfumery
In perfumery, oud is often used as a base note for its power, intensity, and longevity. It blends particularly well with notes such as rose, bergamot, vanilla, leather, and saffron, creating rich and sensual compositions.
Selection of our perfumes
You will find its scents in our perfumes:
● Oriental style
● Hessonite
Damask rose
Origin and History
The Damask rose, or Rosa damascena, sometimes called the Queen of Roses, is an iconic flower native to the Middle East, particularly Syria. Cultivated primarily in Bulgaria, Turkey, and Iran, it is renowned for its rich and complex fragrance. Used since antiquity, it strongly symbolizes femininity, love, and beauty.
Method of Obtaining
Damask rose essence is obtained by steam distillation of freshly picked petals. Did you know? It takes approximately 3,000 kg of petals to produce 1 kg of essential oil, making it one of the most precious raw materials in perfumery!
Olfactory Characteristics
The Damask rose offers a floral, sweet, and slightly fruity scent, with honeyed and spicy facets. It is often described as very feminine and romantic, and is even said to have therapeutic effects.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, which will be the characteristic note of a perfume, the scent that will be smelled for several hours.
This brings a floral richness to compositions. It blends well with fruity notes such as apricot, pineapple, banana, as well as with green notes such as blackcurrant bud.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen Kiss
● Issue 100
● No evidence
● Hessonite
Top note, middle note and base note... what's the difference?
Damask rose
Frankincense
Origin and History
Frankincense, also known as olibanum, is an aromatic resin obtained from Boswellia trees, primarily Boswellia sacra.
Originating from Dhofar (Oman), Somalia and Yemen, frankincense has been used since ancient times in religious rituals and perfumery.
Method of Obtaining
The resin is harvested by making incisions in the tree's bark, allowing the sap to flow out and thus be collected before hardening in the open air. This resin is then distilled to produce the essential oil used in perfumery.
Olfactory Characteristics
Frankincense gives off a woody, spicy, and slightly lemony scent, with resinous and balsamic nuances. It evokes solar and mineral notes that are very interesting in perfumery.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart or base note, frankincense brings a mystical depth to perfumes. It is often associated with oriental, woody, or amber compositions.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Katsura
Frankincense (or Olibanum): The benefits
Jasmin Sambac
Origin and History
Jasmine, which comes from the ancient Persian "Yasmin" meaning "gifts of God", has several varieties including jasmine sambac, or Jasminum sambac, from the Arabic sambac which means "jasmine flower".
This is a variety of jasmine originating from India, also cultivated in China and in the south of France, notably in Grasse, the world capital of perfume.
Renowned for its captivating fragrance, it has been used since antiquity, notably by Cleopatra, which gives it depth in history.
Method of Obtaining
The flowers are harvested by hand at dawn, the moment when they open, having closed at night, and must be processed as quickly and cleanly as possible so as not to lose their scent, then they are transformed by extraction with a solvent.
This substance is then washed with alcohol to obtain jasmine absolute, a precious raw material in perfumery.
Olfactory Characteristics
Jasmine sambac offers a floral, opulent, and slightly fruity scent with animalic facets. It also evokes notes of orange blossom, a flower with its own unique characteristics (INSERT LINK TO ORANGE BLOSSOM PAGE)
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, jasmine sambac brings an exotic sensuality to compositions. It is often associated with floral, fruity, or oriental notes, as mentioned previously.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen Kiss
● Stibnite
● Makila
● Pink almond
● No evidence
Musk
Origin and History
Musk is a fragrant substance secreted by the abdominal gland of the male musk deer, native to Asia (Siberia, China, the Himalayas). Used for centuries in perfumery, natural musk is now being replaced by synthetic alternatives, recreated in laboratories for ethical reasons and to protect the species. Indeed, it is now illegal to kill the animal for its preservation.
Method of Obtaining
Natural musk is obtained by extracting the musk gland from the musk deer, a process that requires killing the animal. Today, synthetic musks are available, such as nitro musks, which give off a powdery, floral, and slightly animalic scent; polycyclic musks, which offer more floral, slightly fruity, and powdery tones; and finally, macrocyclic musks, which are considered the most harmless.
Olfactory Characteristics
Musk has an animalic, woody, and sensual scent. Synthetic musks offer variations ranging from powdery and floral notes to sweeter, fruitier tones. It's a note often used in men's fragrances due to its seductive qualities.
Use in Perfumery
Used primarily as a base note, the one that fades the slowest, musk acts as a fixative, prolonging the fragrance's longevity. It is present in many compositions, adding warmth and sensuality.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
● Pure herb
● Issue 100
● Red zone
● No evidence
● Phantosmia
● Stibnite
● Katsura
● Sugar Love
● Sugar Night
Gardenia
Origin and History
The gardenia belongs to the Rubiaceae family. It is a shrub, ranging from 1 to 15 meters in height, native to Africa, South Asia, and Australia, and comprises approximately 250 species. It has been prized for centuries for its abundant blooms in mid-spring and mid-summer, as well as for its captivating fragrance. However, since naturally extracting gardenias is difficult, their scent is generally recreated in the laboratory using synthetic molecules.
Method of Obtaining
Gardenia is very rarely used in its natural form in perfumery. Its fragrance is recreated using synthetic floral accords, which mimic its creamy and volatile facets.
Olfactory Characteristics
Floral, green, creamy and slightly sweet, the gardenia note is rich, heady and feminine. It evokes and sometimes resembles the scent of jasmine.
Use in Perfumery
Gardenia is used as a heart note, often to create sophisticated floral bouquets. It blends well with other white flowers (jasmine, ylang-ylang) but also with woody or vanilla notes.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stibnite
bitter orange
Origin and History
The bitter orange tree, or Seville orange tree, is native to China or India. It was introduced to the Mediterranean during the Middle Ages. Many materials are extracted from this tree: orange blossom, neroli, the leaves (petitgrain), and of course the peel, from which bitter orange essence is derived.
Method of Obtaining
Bitter orange essence is obtained by cold pressing the peel. Pressing is a process for extracting fragrances, particularly from citrus fruits, which aims to collect the essential oils of these plants, contained in small glands located in their peel; this allows them to retain their citrusy and sparkling qualities.
Olfactory Characteristics
From the citrus family, which includes all citrus fruits with fresh, zesty, slightly bitter, and green notes, bitter orange is a vibrant and luminous scent. It can evoke cologne, while having more character than a sweet orange perfume.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a top note, which is the first scent perceived after spraying the perfume, it will invigorate the fragrance. It blends perfectly with floral, oriental, woody, and spicy families.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stibnite
Perfume making
Extract from Bitter Orange
Sandalwood
Origin and History
Sandalwood comes from a sacred tree in the Santalaceae family, primarily cultivated in India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and Australia. The most prized species is Santalum album, native to southern India. Sandalwood is considered a sacred wood, a symbol of purity, inner peace, and connection to the divine.
Method of Obtaining
The scent of sandalwood is extracted by steam distillation of the wood and heartwood, which contain a high concentration of essential oil. This process yields a precious, dense, and very tenacious essence.
Olfactory Characteristics
Sandalwood, from the woody family, has a woody, sweet, milky, and creamy scent with warm, enveloping, and almost velvety nuances. It is renowned for its olfactory power, exceptional longevity, and its ability to bind other raw materials in a perfume.
Use in Perfumery
Sandalwood is a base note, often used to add body and a spiritual dimension to a fragrance. It is a component of many olfactory families, including oriental, woody, and sensual floral scents. It pairs beautifully with opulent flowers such as rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, or ylang-ylang, as well as with spices like cinnamon and animalic notes like musk.
Magnolia
Origin and History
The magnolia is one of the oldest flowering plants in the world, dating back 20 million years. Native to Japan, China, and the Himalayas, it symbolizes feminine beauty and gentleness. The tree can reach up to 15 meters in height.
Method of Obtaining
The essence is extracted directly from the pink or white flower or recreated in the laboratory using floral accords.
Olfactory Characteristics
Floral, green, slightly lemony, and sunny. The magnolia, which blooms in early spring, strongly evokes it, as well as freshness and purity, with aspects similar to jasmine or lemon blossom. It has a sunny character.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note to enhance floral bouquets or add a touch of springtime radiance, it creates a very feminine aura. It blends well with green, citrus, floral, or musky notes.
Saffron
Origin and History
Saffron is a precious spice, nicknamed "red gold," derived from the stigma of the Crocus sativus flower, a purple flower with a distinctive red stigma. Used since antiquity, it is widely used in Eastern cultures, particularly in medicine, cooking, and perfumery.
Method of Obtaining
Saffron absolute is obtained by distillation or extraction of the dried stigmas. The harvest is manual, meticulous, and requires a large number of flowers for a small dose of essential oil.
Olfactory Characteristics
Saffron gives off a warm, spicy, sometimes even sweet scent. It has great intensity and lends perfumes a unique and sophisticated character.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a top or middle note. It enhances oriental, leathery or amber perfumes, and blends well with wood, rose, musk or incense.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Pink almond
● No evidence
● Red zone
Orange Blossom
Origin and History
Orange blossom is the white flower of the bitter orange tree, also known as the Seville orange tree. Cultivated since antiquity in the Mediterranean region, it is a cornerstone of traditional perfumery, particularly in Morocco and Tunisia, where it is used in both rituals and gastronomy, and its use has even spread to France.
Method of Obtaining
The essential oil is obtained by expression (see definition under bitter orange) or steam distillation of fresh flowers. It yields two products: neroli essential oil and orange blossom essential oil, which is denser and warmer.
Olfactory Characteristics
Floral, powdery, green, and slightly sweet. Orange blossom evokes purity, tenderness, and childhood memories. Compared to neroli, which is made with similar flowers, it has a more intense fragrance.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, it composes floral bouquets or brings a sunny sweetness to oriental, chypre or citrus compositions.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
● Vahina
● Makila
Neroli
Origin and History
Neroli, extracted from the bitter orange blossom, takes its name from a 17th-century Italian princess, the Duchess of Nerola, who perfumed her gloves and baths with this essence. Its use symbolizes the freshness and timeless elegance associated with this princess.
Method of Obtaining
Neroli is obtained by steam distillation of fresh bitter orange blossoms, unlike orange blossom absolute which is obtained by solvent extraction and enfleurage, which is a traditional extraction method that involves macerating the flowers in fatty substances (vegetable oils or animal fats) to extract the fragrant principles.
Olfactory Characteristics
Fresh, green, sparkling and floral. Neroli has citrus facets at the top, evolving towards a softer and sweeter heart.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, perfect in fresh fragrances, colognes, or to soften more intense compositions.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
Myrrh (gum)
Origin and History
A precious resin used in ancient Egypt for embalming and religious rituals. Myrrh comes from a tree that grows in North Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. It is considered sacred in many traditions.
Method of Obtaining
The aromatic gum-resin is harvested by exudation and then distilled or transformed into an absolute, a concentrated perfume extracted from a flower using solvents.
Olfactory Characteristics
It falls into the amber family, is warm, balsamic, resinous and slightly sweet. It evokes depth, the sacred and meditation.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a base note, it enhances amber, woody and oriental compositions.
Bergamot
Origin and History
Bergamot is a citrus fruit, a hybrid between bitter orange and lime, cultivated mainly in Calabria (Italy), and grows on a shrub. It has been a key ingredient in eau de Cologne since the 18th century.
Method of Obtaining
The essential oil is extracted by cold pressing the peels, like all essences of citrus fruits.
Olfactory Characteristics
Fresh, tangy, sparkling, with floral and herbaceous nuances. It also possesses relaxing and anxiolytic properties.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a top note, it energizes perfumes and blends well with all olfactory families.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
● No evidence
● Pure herb
● Stibnite
● Makila
● Sugar Night
Vanilla
Origin and History
Originally from Mexico, vanilla comes from a tropical orchid. Imported to France in the 16th century, it is now primarily cultivated in Madagascar. It evokes the indulgence, sensuality, and warmth of the islands.
Method of Obtaining
The essence is extracted by distillation or extraction from the dried pod. To grow, the pod needs a warm and humid climate.
Olfactory Characteristics
Sweet, warm, spicy and slightly woody. It also has a milky and comforting side.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a base note, it often serves as a binder in oriental, amber or gourmand compositions.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
● Vahina
● Issue 100 Issue
● Sugar Love
● Oriental style
May Rose (or Centifolia Rose)
Origin and History
The May rose, also called the centifolia rose, "rose with a hundred petals" or "rose with a hundred flowers," is cultivated in Grasse (France) and Morocco. It is a symbol of femininity, passion, and romance. Its harvest is delicate and lasts only a few weeks in May, hence its name.
Method of Obtaining
Extraction is carried out using a volatile solvent to obtain the absolute, as specified. Distillation yields a lighter essential oil, less rich than the absolute.
Olfactory Characteristics
An intense floral scent, sweet, smooth, fresh and slightly honeyed. It evokes love and tenderness.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, it is the queen of floral bouquets and also blends well with chypre and oriental notes.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Issue 100 Issue
● No evidence
● Hessonite
Tuscan Iris
Origin and History
Iris, cultivated mainly in Tuscany, is one of the most precious and expensive raw materials in perfumery. It is not the flower but the rhizome that is used, after a long maturation period of 3 years.
Method of Obtaining
The dried rhizome is steam-distilled, producing a concrete, then an absolute. (Previously indicated)
Olfactory Characteristics
Powdery, woody, dry and slightly floral. It evokes elegance, discretion and subtlety.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart or base note, iris gives a chic and precious dimension to perfumes.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen Kiss
Ambergris
Origin and History
A rare substance originating from the intestine of the sperm whale, formed around indigestible elements. After the sperm whale has eaten squid, its stomach secretes a substance to digest the squid's beak, and it is found floating, sometimes years later in the ocean, on the beaches of New Zealand in particular, it acquires a precious and unique smell.
Method of Obtaining
Ambergris is infused in alcohol to create a fragrant tincture. Today, it is mostly replaced by synthetic equivalents because the stone is extremely expensive.
Olfactory Characteristics
Warm, sensual, salty, leathery and slightly animalic. Excellent staying power, very good fixative in compositions.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a base note, it brings warmth and depth to woody, amber or oriental compositions.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Pink almond
Almond
Origin and History
Originally from the Middle East, the sweet almond has been used in cosmetics and perfumery for its nourishing properties and sweet scent. In perfumery, synthetic molecules are often used to mimic its gourmand aroma. Its use is very widespread today.
Method of Obtaining
The scent is recreated in the laboratory, from accords that mimic vanillin, which is the name of the chemical structure of vanilla, musk and lactones, which are part of the milky notes.
Olfactory Characteristics
Soft, powdery, gourmand, slightly bitter. A symbol of elegance and comfort, sometimes even associated with childhood scents.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, it pairs well with white flowers, vanilla and soft woods.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Pink almond
● Sugar love
● Phantosmia
Marshmallow
Origin and History
Marshmallow originates from the wetlands of Western Europe and Central Asia. Its root is used to extract essences prized in perfumery for their comforting, gourmand scents, often associated with childhood. While increasingly used in perfumery, this relatively new flavor, dating back to the 21st century, is less common than other scents such as oud, magnolia, or vanilla.
Method of Obtaining
A note recreated by a gourmand accord, often based on vanilla, musk, sugar and aldehydes which are gases belonging to sweet volatile organic compounds.
Olfactory Characteristics
Sweet, sugary, milky and above all, for many, nostalgic.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a base or heart note, it softens perfumes and makes them more enveloping.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
Caramel
Origin and History
Caramel is a purely gourmand and synthetic evocation, used in modern perfumery to seduce lovers of sweet treats.
Method of Obtaining
Created from synthetic molecules, often with notes of creamy milk and vanilla.
Olfactory Characteristics
Warm, sweet, melt-in-your-mouth and nostalgic. It evokes sweets and the sugary pleasures of childhood.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart or base note, it gives a touch of sensual gourmandise to perfumes.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen kiss
● Red zone
● Katsura
Cinnamon
Origin and History
An ancient spice, used since antiquity in perfumes and sacred rites. It comes from the inner bark of the cinnamon tree, which grows particularly in Sri Lanka.
Method of Obtaining
The essential oil is obtained by distilling the bark of the tree.
Olfactory Characteristics
Spicy, warm, woody, sweet and powerful. It evokes warmth, energy, sometimes seduction, and sweetness.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart or base note, it is very present in oriental and woody perfumes.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Oriental style
Cane Sugar
Origin and History
Cane sugar comes from tropical regions such as the Caribbean or South America. In perfumery, it is mostly present in synthetic form, providing a sweet, tropical sensation.
Method of Obtaining
Recreated in the laboratory, in the form of sweet and indulgent accords.
Olfactory Characteristics
Sweet, tropical, soft and melting. It's an excellent fixative.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a base or heart note, it softens overly aggressive perfumes and prolongs their longevity. It's a highly sought-after combination, especially among young people.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Stolen Kiss
● Issue 100 Issue
Exotic Fruits
Origin and History
Modern notes, synthesized to evoke mango, papaya, pineapple, or banana. They appear in so-called "solar" or tropical perfumes. They allow us to travel simply through their easily identifiable scent!
Method of Obtaining
Created using aromatic molecules in the laboratory.
Olfactory Characteristics
Fruity, sweet, juicy, evocative of holidays and warmth. It's the exotic fresh note, a major trend this summer.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a top or middle note, for a bright and joyful effect. They blend well with citrus fruits.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Pure herb
Ylang-Ylang
Origin and History
Native to Madagascar, the Comoros, and the islands of the Indian Ocean, the yellow ylang-ylang flower is considered a flower of sensuality and seduction. The tree that bears its flowers can reach up to 25 meters in height.
Method of Obtaining
Its essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of fresh flowers.
Olfactory Characteristics
Floral, exotic, creamy, and above all fruity with facets of banana and jasmine. It gives off a very enveloping scent in perfumes.
Use in Perfumery
Used as a heart note, ideal in exotic, oriental or solar florals.
Our perfume selection:
You will find its scent in our perfumes:
● Oriental style